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Secondly, if you replace a component, you can't charge it with a can like that because you need to vacuum the lines out first, which those little charger cans don't have facilities for. Had I only had one of those cold-side cans, I would have not been able to see what was happening. The high and low pressure sides read the same as it was being charged, which is bad. The problem that made me do this was a bad compressor.
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How to use ac recharge bottle full#
The cold-side pressure gauge on a bottle like that doesn't give you the full details of what's happening. If you have a real problem with your AC, though, you need a set of manifold gauges so you can see the pressure on both sides of the system to properly diagnose what's going on. If you have a simple leak, I guess using a canister like that is OK, albeit the EPA wouldn't like it very much. You should never have to "top off" an AC system. If you have to refill, you've got a leak. 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak.Assuming that the AC is only out of r134a, are there downsides to simply using a widely available refill kit? The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!! Just a thought. A system I pull out 99% of the charge, I don't bother to leak test- a system I pull out 5% of the charge gets a thorough going over. Robinaire machines specifically state to charge liquid on the high side- never do they suggest sharging liquid on the low side- their lates equipment defaults to high side charges- also as the machine is pulling a vacuum- the refigerant is recycling- warming the refrigerant- such that when you do charge- it all goes in the high side within about 20 seconds- so never do I ever have to "finish" charging on the low side- it all goes in the high side- as a liquid- The equuipment today makes it extremely easy- as long as you maintain it- and built your confidence in it- That is how I "weigh out" all recovered refrigerant- and how I determine leak intensity.
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How to use ac recharge bottle cracked#
When getting close to full charge, the low side manifold valve is just cracked open, that is always a vapor on a hot day. Gravity is the only thing that transfers the liquid. On the other hand if charging on a -20*F day when the pressures are at zero, can only charge by liquid so the can or tank must be higher than the port and upsidedown like pouring a can of gas into your gas tank. If you are charging into the suction side with around 20 psi on a 95*F day, the tank pressure will be around 110 psi, so it goes pretty fast, even at a vapor as you are charging into a large low pressure volume, the refrigerant won't remain a liquid very long. Typical can taps have restrictors and doesn't seem to make much difference how you hold them, shake them, put them under your arm pits to warm them, charging is slow.
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Hate to think about holding a near 45 pound full tank upsidedown while charging, have plenty of other things to do while charging. 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak.Īre you using a 12 ounce can or a 30 pound tank? Not sure what you mean by a bottle. The charge goes in, in about 5 seconds- then the car is started about 20 minutes later- so the wive's tale about the turning of the pump ten times- is all for naught.in my opinion. BTW all assembly plants charge with liquid (on the high side gage access port) the first time with the compressors completely full of oil. Liquid or gas makes no difference- when charging by weight- just takes longer when using all vapor- if charging on the high side- by all means use liquid- or if there is an a/d between your low side charge port and the compressor- use liquid-it goes in much faster- the whole idea is not to slug the compressor with liquid refrigerant- I set up tests about 10 years ago where I purposely fill the compressors with liquid refrigerant- welded charging ports right on the rear suction input of the compressor- then start the compressor at 3000+ ERPM- makes quite a nice slug for about a second- could actually bend conrods on the V-5 compressor- where it would take 2400 lbs to do it in a lab- I could do it on the vehicle with liquid in the cylinders- of a bottom dead center piston chamber- kind of nice to know.